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NI Institute and Museum

City Costumes

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The objects in the collection of urban costumes date from the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century. Although the amount of represented examples is not large, it does give a clear picture of the cultural and historical development of Bitola and particularly the development of urban dress.

The end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century is a significant period for Bitola, when the town had a central position in European Turkey and was an important administrative, military and trade centre composed of a diverse ethnic and religious population. Foreign Consulates, Vice-Con­sulates and trade agencies of major European cities were present in Bitola, which also contributed to the change in the way of life and dress of the populace. With developed trade connections with the European countries, Bitola was the earliest of the Oriental Macedonian towns to grow into a European one.

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During this period - the symbolic function of clothing is guite distinct, signifying exactly, the social position of every individual. The clothing also relays the message of ethnicity and the social-eco­nomic characteristics of the individual, like marital status, age, profession and other characteristics reflecting the style and spirit of the age from which they originate.

There exist two main types of costume: "alaTurca" or the Oriental style which is the result of centu­ries long Turkish rule, and "ala Franga", introduced and adapted from Western Europeans.
The dominant influence is of the Turks who dictated the dress code through orders and bans.

From the beginning of the 20th century - we see the process of gradual abandonment of the Orien­tal and acceptance of the European style of dress.


Nade Genevska Bracic

NI Institute and Museum Bitola